Art vs. Usability in Milan

Making it in the fashion business is certainly how as a designer and merchandiser one delegates their artistic vision into something the public will buy.  In the past, Italian fashion week displayed the most artistically innovative collections, but hardly what one would wear to a business meeting.  Its a sign of the times that Italian designers are forming more sell able runway looks in order to compete with New York, Paris & London designers.  You can be artistic if you go out of business.  

However, what was once the inspiration of fashion designers all over the world has now become second rate from this restructuring.  Every season has a few misses, but most reviewers agree that s/s 09 in Milan was a great disappointment.  Two designers, to me, did the best at both adapting for an economic recession as well as keeping the artistic element alive in Italian clothing.

The following quote is from Sarah Mower's review of Bottega Veneta's s/s 09 show: 

"It's not a time to be ostentatious with clothes," said Tomas Maier backstage at Bottega Veneta, fingering an artfully faded-out floral-sprigged print on a tea-stained cotton shirtdress. "But our customer has never been like that. And it's not about seasonal dressing anymore—that's gone. People like clothes they can collect and wear for years." Maier's alertness to the sensitivities of our troubled times is part of an emerging picture in Milan. "

 Bottega Veneta S/S 09 RTW photo courtesy style.com

Tomas Maier's Bottega Veneta had a very successful transition into a more wearable Italian RTW line.  The two pictures shown demonstrate a very Italian aesthetic yet completely wearable.

Bottega Veneta S/S 09 RTW  (dress discussed in quote) photo courtesy style.com

Perhaps not as subdued was Consuelo Castiglione at Marni.  This collection was all Milan, yet is (I think) still sell able due to the ever increasing desire for fashionistas to acquire lifelong pieces that are interesting, high-quality and unique.  

Marni S/S 09 RTW photo courtesy style.com

What Marni does is fuse an artistic runway look with usable, sell-able pieces.  This is , ideally, what every designer aspires to do: create a business based on a vision.

Marni S/S 09 RTW photo courtesy style.com